Written December 17, 2008
From my first lesson to now, surfing has always been an exploration. To discover new things about myself and surfing in general. It started with me being very hooked and going through times of over-confidence and ending usually with a nice slice of humble pie. It then faded out after meeting my wife and then coming back when I lost my dad. It helped me escape and heal from my loss, gain perspective of my life and surroundings, and got me ready to be a father.
After the birth of my daughter, I stopped until this past April. 4 years went by without surfing until coworkers talked me into going to Sunset after work. I took out my 8 footer, shaped by Nicol that I won on ebay a year before, and was humbled by how out of shape I was but also got hooked again. Didn't want to get noodle arms again so I started doing push ups for a while to help. Thus began my renewed hunger for surfing.
During the past 8 months, I've added a 6'2 twin-fin fish and a 6'6 Surf Prescriptions thruster to my quiver. My surf spots are El Porto, Oceanpark, Bay Street, Sunset(rarely), Zuma and County Line.
Today I just picked up a used 6'4 Al Merrick Tuflite Flyer and can't wait for this rain to end so that I can try it out.
This storm should end tonight. They say 72 hours is what the wait time is after a significant amount of rainfall. Hopefully I can surf this Sunday.
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